Levi’s Is Bolstering Its New Japanese-Made Sub-Label

The jeans giant's Blue Tab collection has been quietly expanding

Jeans and a top from Levi's Blue Tab, the new Japanese-made sub-label

Not familiar with Levi's Blue Tab? Let's change that.

By Paolo Sandoval

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When it comes to denim, “Japanese-made” is the only superlative that matters, as least according to certain menswear circles. The label has become a sort of shorthand for quality assurance, and for good reason; the craftsmanship and general caliber of denim coming out of Japan in the last few decades — championed by brands like Kapital and, more recently, Auralee — has led to an earned reputation of offering the best jeans money can buy.

It came as little surprise, then, when Levi’s announced Blue Tab, a highly exclusive and premium batch of made-in-Japan denim wares. The original 11-piece capsule, which dropped back in April, featured iconic Levi’s designs like the Type I Trucker and 505 Jeans, masterfully designed from proprietary, Kaihara-milled fabric, and was promptly snatched up by selvedge obsessives.

Levi’s Blue Tab Is Introducing a Whole New Line of Japanese-Made Denim
The new sub-label is focusing on premium, handmade Japanese jeans

There was some concern that Levi’s Blue Tab might be a one-and-done special project, but it seems that there are bigger plans for the sub-label than a one-off drop. The brand has been quietly expanding the scope of the collection in recent months with a range of menswear-coded jean and apparel styles, including with a transitional batch consisting of staples that seem tailor-made for the upcoming seasonal shift.


New to Blue Tab is the Anchor Jean, a straight-leg, relaxed-fit 100% cotton jean that sits at the waist and is cut for optimal ankle stack — a similar style to the previously launched Marker Loose Jeans, but with noticeably less structure for a more casual fit. Levi’s 502 Taper Jeans have also received the made-in-Japan treatment; woven on shuttle looms, the selvedge denim staple improves on the classic formula by adding just a hint of stretch to the mix, and serves as a welcome addition for fans of a slimmer leg.

It’s not just jeans that Blue Tab is dangling. The hallowed Type I and Type III Jackets are also included in the mix, combining all of the historical details — branded buttons, V-stitching, trucker-esque crop — with crispy Japanese denim, to mouthwatering effect. Staple tops a la selvedge work shirts and oversized cotton tees round out the collection. 

The Levi’s Blue Tab collection currently ranges from $58 to $348, and is available to shop here; along with the newer releases, there’s still a smattering of styles from the original drop to be had. We imagine the brand will be dropping more Japanese-made grails in the near future.

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