Humans are creatures of habit. I’m certainly guilty of gravitating towards the same things, especially when it comes to my bar order. I will almost always order the Martini, and I’ll have the bartender make me one even if it’s not on the menu as one of their signature cocktails. I obviously love other drinks, but the Martini is safe — I know it won’t be too sweet, and I’m a sucker for an edible garnish.
But at a recent video shoot, I was reminded of one of my favorite classic cocktails that I never think to order. So it got me thinking: What are some of the other underrated cocktails that people aren’t ordering? I asked some pro bartenders for their insight.
Prohibition-Era Gin Drinks
I was reminded of my favorite underrated classic cocktail at a recent I Know a Place shoot at Fraunces Tavern: the Aviation, made with gin, crème de violette, maraschino liqueur and lemon juice. The cocktail first appeared in the 1916 book Recipes for Mixed Drinks just before the start of Prohibition and enjoyed robust popularity in the years to follow. But when crème de violette became unavailable Stateside in the 1960s, the drink very much fell out of fashion. We can thank importer Haus Alpenz for bringing the spirit back in 2007, but a lot of bars still don’t have this classic on their menu. So if you see it, order it! And if you’re at a really great bar, ask if they can make you one — you won’t be disappointed.
Brynn Smith, the bar director of Bar Next Door, feels the same way about the Bee’s Knees, which also experienced its birth and rise during Prohibition. “Gin, lemon and honey — it’s bright, balanced and utterly refreshing, but it’s rarely ordered unless it’s right in front of you on the menu,” she says.
The Classic Gin and Tonic
I admit that I don’t order G&Ts very often. Before this current era of high-end craft mixers, I’d been burned too many times by the overly sweet and syrupy versions made with Schweppes and Canada Dry. But every time I have one made with Fever-Tree, I remember how delicious this simple classic can be.
“G&Ts are slept on,” says Laurel Delany, the head bartender at Dean’s. “They’re so refreshing, and while the sweetness of tonic can be off-putting for some, they’re one of the easiest classics to adapt. Even cutting it with club soda gives you a lighter, brighter take.
A Spritz Without Aperol
When you think of the spritz, Aperol most certainly comes to mind. But lest we forget, this Italian aperitivo cocktail can be made with almost any bitter liqueur.
“The Bicicleta cocktail is an Italian classic — the original spritz, as we like to call it,” says Linden Pride, the principal at Dante. “According to a popular Italian legend, the Bicicleta (“bicycle” in Italian) was named for the elderly men who, after a few afternoon drinks at a cafe, swerved all over the road while riding home. Campari adds delightfully bitter complexity to dry Italian white wine, while a splash of club soda turns the combination into a refreshing spritz. We love it and make sure it always has a home on our menu.”
We Tested the New Interactive Cocktail Menu at Double Chicken Please
The Plinko-like menu will help you decide which drink to orderSomething From the Low-ABV Section
I’m the most guilty of skipping out on this category because I tend to go for strong, stirred cocktails rather than tall, refreshing ones. To be fair, I typically follow a cocktail with wine, but I never really give the low-ABV section of the menu a chance. A lot of other people skip over it, too, and they’re missing out on some of the most interesting flavors on a cocktail menu.
“People tend to gravitate towards the higher-octane options on cocktail menus (Martinis, Old Fashioneds, etc.), but offering lower-ABV options subtly signals that a bar designs thoughtful cocktails across the board,” says Blake Walker, head bartender and partner at Chin Up Bar. “I’ve found that often the biggest surprises and unique flavors can be found in low-ABV offerings.”
Yes, you can always choose something from the low-ABV section. Or you could spring for a low-alcohol classic. “One of the most underrated cocktails you can order is the Sherry Cobbler,” says Marko Simonovski, director of restaurants at BRASS and The Tusk Bar (the Cobbler is a shaken drink with sherry, sugar and citrus). “Back in the mid-1800s, it was arguably the most popular drink in the world, even helping popularize the drinking straw because it was traditionally served over crushed ice with fresh fruit. It’s typically low ABV but still has a ton of depth from the nutty, oxidative character of the sherry. With more guests leaning toward lighter, more sessionable drinks, it really hits that sweet spot.”
Twists on the Strong and Stirred Classics
If you insist on a strong and stirred drink but want something other than a Martini or Manhattan, there are plenty of variations that offer a similar structure and flavor profile but still taste different enough for it to feel new.
“The Martinez (gin, sweet vermouth, maraschino liqueur, bitters) is one of the more underrated classics to order and, honestly, one of my favorites to see on a menu,” says Lauren Rojas, head bartender at Jac’s on Bond. “It lives somewhere between a Manhattan and a Martini, but it never gets the same attention because people don’t recognize the name as quickly or don’t know about it enough. It’s a bit of a litmus test for me — if a bar puts a Martinez on the menu, I immediately know that this bar program is strong.”
“A quick read of the back bar tells you everything,” says Bowen Kirkwood, bar director at the not-yet-opened NYC bar Tin’s. “If you see bottles like Chartreuse or a thoughtful selection of Italian amari, it’s usually a sign that the bar has a deeper cocktail program and is equipped to make something beyond the standard repertoire. In those settings, I often recommend going for a simple riff on a classic, and the Greenpoint is a great example. Created in 2005 at Milk and Honey, it’s essentially a Manhattan with the addition of Yellow Chartreuse. It’s familiar but slightly elevated and a drink that many strong bars can execute well but guests rarely think to order.”
Maybe you’re not a Scotch drinker but enjoy Manhattans. That makes it easy to try the Rob Roy, a drink that Anthony Baker, head bartender of Warren Street Bar & Restaurant, thinks is wildly underrated. “The Rob Roy offers not only dryness but unmatched complexity you would never get from any American whiskey,” he says. “In my opinion, it’s best to just switch out the rye for Scotch and call it a day.”
I always come back to Martinis because they are dry or savory, two flavor profiles I’m constantly craving. But Martini lovers would do well to consider something with a touch more richness and depth than what the simple mix of gin and dry vermouth can provide.
“Although I am an avid Martini lover, there are subcategories of stirred gin cocktails that are severely underordered yet incredibly delicious,” says Robert Lam-Burns, bar manager of LenLen. “These include the Hanky Panky (gin, sweet vermouth, fernet), Bijou (gin, sweet vermouth, Green Chartreuse) and the 50/50 Martini (equal parts gin and dry vermouth). A lot of these drinks are pretty dependent on the quality of product being used, so drinkers should definitely look out if bars are highlighting small producers rather than big brands with marketing budgets.”
Amir Babyoff, the beverage director at Ophelia Lounge and Sahil Essani, head bartender at Room 207, also sing the Bijou’s praises. “The Bijou is an often-overlooked classic from the late 1800s,” Essani says. “Structurally, it sits in between a Martini and a Martinez, but the Chartreuse adds a layer of herbal complexity that makes it stand out.”
Any Cocktail With Rum
Rum gets a bad rap, mostly from people who drank too much Captain Morgan in college. But rum is one of the most elegant and nuanced spirits, so long as you’re drinking the good stuff. Unless you’re at a tiki bar, you’re likely not ordering the rum cocktail, but Kelly Verardo, bar programs director at Ai Fiori, wants you to change that.
“At every bar I’ve worked at, the rum cocktail is never the top seller,” she says. “People tend to associate rum with vacation drinks, so it is often ordered during a specific time and place, usually in warmer, beachy climates like Miami. So many times, the rum cocktail on the menu is crafted with extra love to be as appealing as possible. A Solera-aged rum can make a delicious Old Fashioned or a Hemingway Daiquiri, which is balanced and a world away from a frozen vacation Daiquiri.”
More Like This
Every Thursday, our resident experts see to it that you’re up to date on the latest from the world of drinks. Trend reports, bottle reviews, cocktail recipes and more. Sign up for THE SPILL now.