By The Editors / January 14, 2015 9:00 am

Foie gras, you may have heard, is back.

All that remains? Where to break the ban.

Sure, we have excellent options close to home — including La Toque in Napa.

But in our humble opinion, Restaurant Trokay, in downtown Truckee, offers Northern California’s best ratio of fine dining, foie gras fervor and by-the-slopes action, period.

Yes, we’re recommending a restaurant that’s three hours away.

But you were going to Tahoe soon anyway, right?

Trokay comes courtesy of two elaborately titled ex-New Yorkers: John Weatherson (former chef de partie at double Michelin-starred Restaurant Daniel) and his wife Nyna (former head cheesemonger at Murray’s, the bucket list-level West Village cheese shop).

The vibe inside: wood-centric alpine modern. 

This is where you’d stop for a legitimately excellent meal after a day in the snow. 

Your correspondent assigns a portion of her heart to Truckee, where three kindly grandmothers once gave her $150 from their gambling stash to ensure she made it safely to her new home in San Francisco.

Gambling grannies aside, this convivial mountain town and its stand-out purveyor of foie gras deserve your attention on the way to Tahoe’s slopes this winter.

Get it while it’s legal.