One of the lessons we’ve learned from red carpets in recent years is that A-listers are demanding smaller, sleeker watches. No more flashy 50mm dinner plates. Well, unless you’re The Rock.
Breitling has seemingly heard this firsthand, having signed an impressive roster of ambassadors that includes NBA star Giannis Antetokounmpo, soccer sensation Erling Haaland and actor Austin Butler. As such, the Swiss watchmaker has been leaning into, as InsideHook contributor Oren Hartov put it, a “new, smaller direction,” shrinking classic references for its cultural emissaries.
Now, the brand is doubling down on that streamlined aesthetic — and an iconic reference — by rebooting the Chronomat. Originally a hulking, ’80s-era piece designed for Italian fighter pilots, the model caught the watch world’s attention when it was reissued as an itty-bitty 32mm luxury watch last year. Its debut on Butler’s wrist certainly helped.
After that first taste, this week Breitling debuted a newly refined collection that is, in a word, expansive. The new Chronomat is offered in three new variants, each with a variety of dial and metal options. All told, there are 22 unique references across the lineup.
The showstopper is the new B01 42 Chronograph, a slimmer iteration of the retro pilot’s watch. The rebooted 42mm case is noticeably smaller than the previous generation, shedding not only a few millimeters in its lug-to-lug width, but also thickness, thanks to the in-house Caliber B01, the same movement that powers the brand’s Navitimer line. A new integrated bracelet, ergonomic tonneau shape and flattened detailing contribute to a modern take on the classic chronograph. (Tool-watch purists will be happy to know that the timepiece is also available on a rubber strap.)
The new dial options help establish a refreshed identity, too. Along with a variety of more traditional panda dials, the Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 is also offered in two-toned steel and red gold cases with an anthracite dial, a solid 18-karat red gold with a dusty brown dial and, my favorite of the bunch, as I suspect is the case for most Breitling fans, a platinum-bezeled version with an icy blue dial and black subdials.
Also featured in the Chronomat relaunch are two new time-and-date iterations, the Automatic B31 40 and Automatic 36. Featuring the same case shape and integrated bracelet and clocking in at (you guessed it!) 40mm and 36mm respectively, they might seem like pared-back (and sized-down) alternates to the chronograph, but don’t be fooled; between the Automatic B31 40’s trusty Caliber B31, classic dial options and near-universal sizing, what we’ve got here is a superb daily driver. Similarly, expect to see the Automatic 36 — maybe even the version with inlaid diamond hour markers and bezel — on VIPs as long as the small-watch trend continues to dominate men’s wrists.
Breitling’s aviation heritage is firmly baked into the brand, but the updated Chronomat (not to mention recent business moves, including cementing a massive partnership with the NFL) seems to suggest a willingness to push towards more stylized references, albeit ones built on brand DNA.
While I can’t see the Navitimer (or updated Superocean) unseated as Breitling’s premier offering, the addition of a distinctive, dressy and, yes, outright dainty sports watch that someone like Austin Butler can get behind is probably, as the kids say, good for the culture. And at a range of prices — the steel Automatic 36 starts at $5,950 — it’s a genius entry-level piece for the young, Breitling-curious collector.
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