Suits Fit for Mad Men

The Suits of JB Pasht

Tailoring tips from LA's sharpest dressed man

Jonas Bell Pasht is LA's premiere collector of men's suits.

He wears them every day.

Yeah, for LA, that's a bit strange.

But he has ones for chillier days. Ones for warmer ones.

And all of them were custom made.

He took bespoke clothing up as a hobby while studying in Rome. Bought a handful of custom shirts and he was hooked.

I started studying the history of men’s style, and began to understand the science behind the design of men’s clothes. I learned the origins of the clothes we wear, and began to appreciate clothes as a window into who we are, both individually and collectively. You can tell so much about an individual, a nation, and a people by the clothes they wear.”

He brings that same focus to his own company, Citizen Jones, where he’s currently producing a show about the stranger side of fashion history, set to premiere on Fusion this April.

Below, we show you where Pasht goes to find his suit fabric, what you should buy, and where to get it tailored. Read on.

Suits Fit for Mad Men

Pasht gets his fabric from B. Black & Sons. Founded in 1922, B. Black houses three floors of fabric and has one of the largest supplies of dead stock (found articles that haven’t been used) in the nation.

This is where Hollywood wardrobe stylists go to get fabric used in period costumes — including ones worn by Leonardo DiCaprio (J. Edgar), Jamie Foxx (Django Unchained) and Jon Hamm (Mad Men).

Just to name a few.

You’ll find the dead stock on the second and third floors.

B. Black & Sons

548 S Los Angeles St, Los Angeles, CA 90013

(213) 624-9451

Suits Fit for Mad Men

Newer fabric is made with a matte finish. Older fabrics don’t have that and they’re heavier. They’re also more weather resistant.

A three-piece suit requires about 5-6 yards of fabric.

Says Pasht: “A good way to jazz up a suit is with buttons.”

B. Black has a large supply of old buttons, some made with leather or brass, and they can be found in the back left of the store’s first floor.

Suits Fit for Mad Men

Pasht wanted a new tux for awards season. But rather than find a black one, he went with midnight blue, because that’s what they used to be made with.

“It’s the Prince of Wales style,” he says, lifting the fabric to inspect it. “They used this color because it came out blacker in photographs.”

Pasht is drawn to the weight and texture. “Recent decades have seen a trend towards lighter, airier fabrics, which I don’t like as much,” he says.

"But I also like the imperfections that can be found in older prints and fabrics. I believe clothes should look lived in — rather than just bought off the rack.”

Suits Fit for Mad Men

To get a more modern fit, Pasht takes his suits to Requisite in Beverly Hills, where owner Jeric Rivera cuts the cloth.

Pasht linked up with Rivera five years ago; they shares a love for clothes from the '20s and '40s.

“It’s all about the hunt for something distinct and different,” says Rivera.

Requisite

140 S. Beverly Drive, Suite 205
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
424-488-1037

Suits Fit for Mad Men

This is part of a three-piece suit he just had made. Pasht picked this out an upholstery store in Los Angeles.

“I wanted to make a striking suit with a bold pattern and I thought floral print would be a festive choice. I think this fabric was destined for a set of curtains at some motel before I rescued it.”

Pasht wanted a classic tuxedo with some personality.

He found this shawl-collar three-piece dinner suit — made from a vintage silk/wool fabric in blue-gree — at B. Black & Sons in Downtown L.A.

He loves the silk: “It gives the jacket has an iridescent quality which makes it stand out."

He added vintage details like the shawl-collar waistcoat, cuffs on the sleeves, and an extra wide lapel button hole for a boutonniere.

Made from a deadstock 1945 English wool sourced at B. Black & Sons.

“The fabric had been collecting dust for decades. It caught my eye and I couldn’t resist having it made into a traditional three-piece suit with peak lapels.”

Made from materials found in the upholstery section at International Silks & Woolens in Los Angeles.

“The material reminded me of vintage Palm Springs, and it looked so crazy that I couldn’t resist. I think everyone should have at least one truly crazy thing in their closet.”

Pasht doesn’t hunt. But this suit does.

This was made from a vintage olive-colored wool and has all the classic details that a traditional English hunting suit would — including breeches.

"It’s a stretch to think that I might wear this entire suit much over the course of my life — but that jacket actually looks pretty cool when worn on its own."

 

Pasht also collects pocket squares and silks.

“My collection includes many vintage finds from all over the world [Palm Springs, Toronto, Tokyo, Rome], and custom items made from interesting fabrics I’ve found over the years.”

He stores them in a vintage humidor that once belonged to his grandfather.

There's nothing that gives Pasht more pleasure than rescuing old fabrics and turning them into unique outfits.

"It’s like wearing a piece of history."

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