Milan is the center of attention for the Winter Olympics, but the best reason to visit the city might be to grab one of four seats at Backdoor 43, the smallest bar in the world. This closet-sized establishment operates behind a nondescript doorway in the Niviglio neighborhood, facing a canal on Ripa di Porta Ticinese. A steady stream of tourists and locals flood the streets, taking advantage of the rows of bars and restaurants and abundant outdoor seating. Mag Café, big brother to Backdoor 43, sits next door.
Both bars, plus a few more sprinkled around the city, are owned by Flavio Angiolillo and Marco Russo as part of the Farmily Group. Their speakeasy, 1930 or Millenovecentotrenta, currently sits at number 43 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list and is one of the hottest spots in Milan.
Despite its minuscule size, Backdoor 43 has charm. The four-square-meter space boasts soaring ceilings ringed with rows of rare whisky, yellowing vintage photographs and various other ephemera from butterfly collections to dangling carved hot air balloons, which is a surprising amount to look at in a bar that has only four seats and a to-go window (or the “drink away” window, as Backdoor 43 calls it).
Entrance is by reservation only and lasts for up to 90 minutes. Once you enter, everything —including the music, cocktails, glassware and brightness of the lights — is at your discretion. The bartender can and will make anything your heart desires, but the focus is on classic cocktails and riffs. As for what to order, I suggest you sample Farmily Group’s own range of bitter aperitivi and amari, either solo or mixed into a Negroni for a nice twist on the classic. And yes, there is a restroom on the premises, and in comparison to the minuscule bar, it feels rather spacious.
If you can’t get in, drink-away orders are available from a small window where the bartender remains hidden. You’ll see hands shaking a cocktail, and if there is any face-to-face contact through the small opening in the wall, you’ll see an eerily-smiling Guy Fawkes mask as you’re handed a drink.
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As for the other Farmily properties, neighboring Mag Café is a sweet and intimate stop before or after a trip to Backdoor 43. You’ll need a password to visit 1930, but the bartenders at the other venues can make it easier to find your way inside. While there is no password for Backdoor 43, rightly called the smallest bar in the world, make sure to book early, as seating is obviously extremely limited. Just make sure to stop and knock before entering, or you’ll receive a stern talking to from the bartender. With such an up-close and personal experience, every inch of decorum counts.
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