To keep tabs on every S.F. restaurant and bar opening is folly. But to keep tabs on the most worthy? Yeoman’s work, and we’re proud to do it. Thus we present Table Stakes, a monthly rundown of the five (or so) must-know spots that have swung wide their doors in the past thirty (or so). Bon appétit.
Why now: The much-awaited debut from Ayesha Curry and Michael Mina has proven so popular that there’s only a handful of tables left between now and the end of January — and by “handful,” we mean the first available 7:30 seating is on Christmas Eve.
Eat this: The “trio sampler” of eclectic takes on smoked pork shoulder (American pulled pork sliders, Cuban tostones, and Korean scallion crepes) — plus brussels sprouts (with soy caramel and peanuts) to share.
301 Mission St. (map)
Why now: CDP is the wine-bar-next-door at Commis — with its own, super-luxe bites line-up and a drinks menu focused on sparkling wine and brandy.
Eat this: Pacific oysters over shaved melon ice, 25 grams of caviar service, and rustic country pork paté — perhaps with the Macallan 18-year Speyside single malt?
3859 Piedmont Ave., Oakland (map)
Why now: It’s a great-looking bar owned by a local surfer two blocks from the ocean, plus there’s a fireplace. What else could we possibly want?
Drink this: The first edition of the menu, developed by The Treasury’s Carlos Yturria, takes inspiration from tools (so yes, there’s a Screw Driver, with Volstead vodka and Tio Pepe sherry). We like the Cat’s Paw, with Pueblo Viejo tequila and quince.
3608 Taraval St. (map)
Why now: Chef Nick Cobarruvias is an ex-chef de cuisine at meat patty-mecca Marlowe — which means Son’s Addition is definitely going to be remaking the neighborhood’s burger map.
Eat this: The Marin Sun Farms burger, served with white cheddar, bacon-onion marmalade, romaine, tomato confit, and charred scallion aioli, plus fries. (Or the pan-roasted black cod if you’re not in the mood for beef.)
2990 24th St. (map)
Why now: It’s the perfect after-spot — especially after dinner at Villon downstairs. Expect Charmaine’s to figure prominently on every best rooftop bar list from now until it closes.
Drink this: It’s a rooftop bar, and rooftop bars are made for Champagne (all the big names are present ‘n’ accounted for); otherwise, try something from the comprehensive cocktails menu, like the Songs from the Brill Building (Larceny bourbon and Bénédictine).
1100 Market Street at Proper Hotel (map)