Table Stakes: September

Five new places to get your nosh on this month

By Reuben Brody

Visit These Five LA Restaurants. Now!
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03 October 2016

Because every Angeleno loves to eat, even if he has to valet, we bring you Table Stakes: a series that answers man’s eternally recurring question (“Uh, what’s new?”), and recurs once every lunar cycle or so. Bon appétit.

If there is a new trend in the world of elevated cuisine, it’s that the once-humble vegetable is flying the coop and striking out on its own. Charred salads. Grilled veggie bowls. Something called potachos that looks conspicuously like a giant plate of nachos — light, underwhelming dishes these are not.

We aren’t advocating cutting meat out of your restaurant rotation full stop. But we are advocating that you add three veggie-centric restaurants helmed by big-name chefs into said rotation.

P.Y.T.
Downtown

You’re dining on: farro with a subtle hint of cheese, crispy onions, bok choy and grilled cucumber. Also: creamy grits with collards. And a tomato tartine that’s incredibly delicate and could pass for a dessert. We could go on. Josef Centeno (Ledlow, Baco Mercat) nails the veggies.

400 S. Main St. (map)
Website

Destroyer
Culver City

You’re dining on: charred carrots with kale in a big clay bowl and washing it down with fresh watermelon and ginger juice. Then some of the milk ice cream. The long awaited return of Chef Jordan Kahn doesn’t disappoint.

3578 Hayden Ave. (map)
Website

Beefsteak
West Hollywood

You’re dining on: potachos — crispy, par-boiled potatoes made like nachos with a carrot mole. Add a soft egg and mix it in. Once again, a meat-centric chef is playing dirty with veggies. This time it’s Marcel Vigneron from Wolf, which is next door.

7661 Melrose Ave (map)
Website

Vinoteca
Beverly Hills

You’re dining on: a puff-pastry pizza topped with creamy burrata and poached lobster. You’re also on a lovely shaded patio sipping Italian wine. Presumably, you brought a date. Presumably, they are impressed.

300 S. Doheny Dr. (map)
Website

Brack Shop Tavern
Downtown

You’re dining on: a patty melt with pickles and pimento cheese and loaded potato skins. You’re either pre-gaming the next Rams (or basketball) game or watching sports on the flat screens. They are multitudinous.

525 7th Street (map)
Website

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