Table Stakes: September
Five new places to stuff your face this month
Because every Angeleno loves to eat, even if he has to valet, we bring you Table Stakes: a series that answers man’s eternally recurring question (“Uh, what’s new?”), and recurs once every lunar cycle or so. Bon appétit.
If there is a new trend in the world of elevated cuisine, it’s that the once-humble vegetable is flying the coop and striking out on its own. Charred salads. Grilled veggie bowls. Something called potachos that looks conspicuously like a giant plate of nachos — light, underwhelming dishes these are not.
We aren’t advocating cutting meat out of your restaurant rotation full stop. But we are advocating that you add three veggie-centric restaurants helmed by big-name chefs into said rotation.
You’re dining on: farro with a subtle hint of cheese, crispy onions, bok choy and grilled cucumber. Also: creamy grits with collards. And a tomato tartine that’s incredibly delicate and could pass for a dessert. We could go on. Josef Centeno (Ledlow, Baco Mercat) nails the veggies.
You’re dining on: charred carrots with kale in a big clay bowl and washing it down with fresh watermelon and ginger juice. Then some of the milk ice cream. The long awaited return of Chef Jordan Kahn doesn’t disappoint.
You’re dining on: potachos — crispy, par-boiled potatoes made like nachos with a carrot mole. Add a soft egg and mix it in. Once again, a meat-centric chef is playing dirty with veggies. This time it’s Marcel Vigneron from Wolf, which is next door.
You’re dining on: a puff-pastry pizza topped with creamy burrata and poached lobster. You’re also on a lovely shaded patio sipping Italian wine. Presumably, you brought a date. Presumably, they are impressed.
Brack Shop Tavern
You’re dining on: a patty melt with pickles and pimento cheese and loaded potato skins. You’re either pre-gaming the next Rams (or basketball) game or watching sports on the flat screens. They are multitudinous.
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