Ask Danny Agnew
Our Style Director takes your sartorial questions
Because every man must dress himself, and sometimes even leave the house wearing pants, we present “Ask Danny Agnew” — a series that answers your questions regarding all matters vestiary, and recurs whenever he gets around to it. Have a query? Email it to firstname.lastname@example.org.
Watches: acceptable to mix touches of both gold and silver?
– Michael Davidson, Newport Beach, CA
First and foremost, let me state that this is very much a matter of personal preference — I don’t particularly care for metal watches to begin with (I’m a leather strap guy), but I recognize the fact that iconic brands like Rolex and TAG make two-tone numbers for a reason. This Movado ain’t bad either. A tad flashy for my taste, but not a dealbreaker.
I will say that strictly adhering to one metal strikes me as a tad draconian. While I prefer my timepiece more straightforward, I do mix up my wrist metals on the regular (with a healthy dose of leather, rope and just about anything else shy of Kabbalah string). It makes for fewer headaches when getting dressed.
So by all means, let our precious metals play with one another, in moderation. Otherwise, where does it stop? Changing your wedding band to match your ensemble?
I’m a muscular guy and my chest to waist ratio exceeds the max differential for suits, so I tend look like I raided my dad’s closet. Are off the rack separates ok?
– Brian Houston, Phoenix, AZ
Brian, I’m gonna give you a four-point plan:
Invest in one made-to-measure suit. Nothing fits like custom, especially for guys with unique body types. You should have at least one special occasion showstopper that was built specifically for you, and with the advent of MTM hybrids like Indochino and J. Hilburn, you won’t go broke getting it.
Check out J.Crew’s new Crosby fit, designed specifically with guys like you in mind. Good enough for New York’s rugby team, good enough for you hopefully.
Embrace separates — suit jacket and pants sold separately are becoming more commonplace. Offhand I know Club Monaco and Zara both do them. Also, use this as an excuse to cop a more bold blazer that wouldn’t work as a full suit. Like this plaid fella from Billy Reid.
Befriend your tailor. Chances are a jacket that fits extra-broad shoulders is gonna need some work in the waist, and that’s fine. Just focus on the shoulders first, as it’s a much tougher fix.
Ok so what’s the deal with these pants I keep seeing with elastic cuffs? Is this a thing now?
– Marco Nagawa, Denver, CO
Short answer, yes. Joggers, track pants, Higgins pants — whatever you want to call them, they’re very much having a moment (featured in our Fall Style Issue, in fact). And I personally dig them as a weekend look. Zanerobe is a great baseline in traditional chino greens and khakis, but high-end designers like Mark McNairy and Michael Kors are getting in on the action with textured wool and suede numbers. Pair ‘em with some dapper trainers and a tailored sweater and you’re owning brunch. If brunch is your thing.
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